I wasn’t going to write about this but I saw some unhappy fashion people complaining about the news, and I thought maybe this is more controversial than I originally believed. The late Virgil Abloh was the creative director for Louis Vuitton for years. Abloh was beloved by celebrities and fashionistas, and he transformed the label into something much more accessible and aspirational for younger and racially diverse demographics. Abloh passed away in late 2021, and the house of Louis Vuitton waited a respectful amount of time before replacing him. This week, they announced Abloh’s replacement: Pharrell Williams.
The fashion and entertainment industries, which have long been intertwined, converged even further on Tuesday when Louis Vuitton named Pharrell Williams, the American rapper and producer, as its new creative director for men’s wear.
The French luxury brand announced on Instagram that it had hired Mr. Williams about 16 months after the sudden death of its previous men’s wear designer, Virgil Abloh, in 2021. Mr. Williams, the brand said in a statement, “is a visionary whose creative universes expand from music to art, and to fashion — establishing himself as a cultural global icon.”
Other names floated as successors to Mr. Abloh have included the British designers Grace Wales Bonner and Martine Rose, as well as the American designers Telfar Clemens and Colm Dillane, better known as KidSuper, who last month was announced as Louis Vuitton’s first ever men’s wear guest designer, a sign many took to mean that he had been tapped to follow Mr. Abloh.
But it was ultimately Mr. Williams, 49, who landed what is considered one of the most high-profile creative director roles in men’s fashion. His appointment was the first major move by Louis Vuitton’s new chief executive, Pietro Beccari, who joined the brand from Dior last month.
The complaints I’ve seen from fashion-industry people range from “Pharrell isn’t a real designer/director” and “he doesn’t have enough of a background in design and fashion.” I mean… some of those complaints aren’t entirely wrong, in that Pharrell never went to fashion school and he doesn’t have experience helming a major fashion house. That being said, Pharrell does have a lot of design experience and fashion experience. He’s been a brand ambassador for labels like Chanel and Tiffany & Co, and he’s also worn and worked with LV for years. He’s designed for Adidas for years too. I think Pharrell is a bold choice, but also a choice which continues Abloh’s vision for LV. I also think a lot of European fashion people are mad about the fact that another American – and a Black American – will helm Louis Vuitton, an iconic French label.
Photos courtesy of Cover Images.
I have a dumb question. What is the role of a creative director? How much influence do they have or can they have? Is there a director of menswear that actually leads the design work?
Creative directors have a lot of influence they control which direction the line will go in and establish the brand’s vision, in all aspects from marketing to runway.
“I also think a lot of European fashion people are mad about the fact that another American – and a Black American – will helm Louis Vuitton, an iconic French label.”
This is probably the main reason. Virgil Abloh didn’t go to fashion school either.
The main reason is that Pharell is known for his music in Europe, not for his fashion *designs*. For most of people, someone who worked their a** in the fashion industry is more legitimate than Pharell.
Doesn’t have anything to do with the fact that Pharell is American or Black American – even if of course some people must truly be p** about that.
PS: We “Europeans” come from many different countrie,s have different languages so stop making generalizations about Europeans, it’s exhausting!
Just because someone is a celebrity doesn’t mean he is right fit for the job. It should have been given to someone that truly knows fashion and business and worked their way up to this position. It’s a slap in the face to everyone that has been working to get this position. I don’t think it has anything to do with race.
@ Marion
“ Europeans” come from many different countrie,s have different languages so stop making generalizations about Europeans, it’s exhausting!
When did Amy Bee imply that Europe is one country? I know you may like to live in a fantasy world, but racism all over Europe, especially against Black people run rampid and has for hundreds of years.
@ Fabiola
Your delusional, if you don’t think and being black out something to do with it.
@Marion exactly this. Double upvote on the part about “the europeans” – drives me crazy.
Not too sure about this because a lot of people with bonafide design chops in fashion are out there, but will see what he comes up with. He’s a creative musician so wonder if that will translate to the pressure of such a global brand. Design is such a grind today, have to produce so many collections, boost sales and keep the numbers up, and keep it relevant.
I think this is absurd. Pharrell stole from Marvin Gaye and now he will helm Louis Vuitton men’s line as creative director? I am an ardent fan of fashion and I would love to see “new blood” infiltrate the famous brands and truly bring new life to iconic labels but this isn’t the way of it. I don’t think you need to go to fashion school but I think you do need to have knowledge of cut, fabric, shape, detail and based on his own fashion sense I don’t see this as the future of LV whose men’s label has always been chasing Lanvin.
LVMH has no problem with promoting Depp in Dior and Fenty, so old news plagiarism won’t stop it.
I think this is interesting that Kanye West unravelling began six months ago, during Paris fashion week and… Vuitton search for Abloh replacement. He kept insulting Abloh and… Bernard Arnault, and some people on the net were saying for laughs, this last misdeed wouldn’t go unpunished.
It was forgotten in the aftermath of his antisemitic rants.
But maybe his rage was triggered by Arnault and Vuitton destroying his deluded dream of gaining fashion world recognition by refusing him this job….
He must be livid
His rage was triggered because he’s unmdedicated and an anti-semite.
Yes, Kanye is unmedicated and anti-semite racist.
But his rants and “erratic” moments and behavior are usually launched by events which displease or shock him.
His disgusting discourse about Abloh and Arnault seemed absurd, wtf and stupid.
Being rejected from taking over Vuitton would have been a major blow, and the last drop.
💕 🔥
We’ll see how this goes. I, personally, think it will be clear quickly that this was a bad idea and Pharrell is out of his depth. Actual design involves more than just picking clothes you like and being photographed in them, and I don’t even think Pharrell has good taste. Get ready for some incredibly stupid hats!